Influence of values, brand consciousness and behavioral intentions in predicting luxury fashion consumption
| Date | 29 May 2020 |
| Pages | 513-531 |
| DOI | https://doi.org/10.1108/JPBM-08-2019-2535 |
| Published date | 29 May 2020 |
| Author | Pradeep Kautish,Arpita Khare,Rajesh Sharma |
Influence of values, brand consciousness and
behavioral intentions in predicting luxury
fashion consumption
Pradeep Kautish
Department of Marketing, Institute of Management, Nirma University, Ahmedabad, India
Arpita Khare
Department of Marketing, Indian Institute of Management Rohtak, Rohtak, India, and
Rajesh Sharma
Department of Economics, School of Business, Mody University of Science and Technology, Sikar, India
Abstract
Purpose –This paper aims to examine the relationships among two distinct yet interconnected forms of value orientations, namely, terminal and
instrumental values, brand consciousness and behavioral intentions. This study validated the conceptual model for branded fashion apparel
consumption in an emerging market, e.g. India.
Design/methodology/approach –The research design followed a two-step approach to test the measurement and structural models for partial
least squares structural equation modeling with SmartPLS (v.3.0) as recommended by Anderson and Gerbing (1988).
Findings –The results illustrated that both the instrumental and terminal values influence brand consciousness and, consequently, brand
consciousness had an impact on behavioral intentions for fashion apparel consumption. Instrumental values had a greater influence on brand
consciousness and behavioral intentions than terminal values. Brand consciousness mediated the rel ationship between instrumental/terminal values
and behavioral intentions.
Research limitations/implications –This study defined two value orientations (i.e. instrumental versus terminal) using cross-sectional data from
an emerging market. Future studies may examine the research findings’generalizability using diverse data sets (longitudinal and cross-sectional)
and evaluate the value orientation and customers’favorable behavioral intentions for luxury fashion consumption.
Practical implications –This study provides insights into luxury marketers and practitioners to understand the contribution of instrumental and
terminal values on brand consciousness and behavioral intentions for luxury fashion apparel. The findings would assist in developing marketing
strategies for an emerging market, i.e. India.
Social implications –With the rapid proliferation of materialism, the Indian market has witnessed the dawn of a new era of luxury fashion
acceptance. The research offers evidence that in emerging markets such as India, consumers exhibit value orientation toward luxury brands while
holding a sense of fashion involvement in their consumption behavior.
Originality/value –This study is a pioneering attempt to understand the relationships between the value orientation, namely, instrumental and
terminal values and their underlying influence on brand consciousness and behavioral intentions towardfashion apparel. Rokeach’s (1973) two-
dimensional value dichotomy was adapted to understand luxury apparel consumption in an emerging market context, specifically India.
Keywords Values, Brand consciousness, Behavioral intentions, Instrumental, Terminal, Fashion apparels
Paper type Research paper
1. Introduction
The global personal luxury goods market is estimated to reach
e320–365bn by 2025 at an annual growth rate of around 3%–
5% (Bain and Company, 2018). Theemerging markets (EMs)
have become the growth engines of the world (Burgess and
Steenkamp, 2013;Sinha and Sheth,2018), which got two vital
characteristics: large and young populations and positive
economic growth that outpace the developed markets. In the
marketing landscape, these characteristics have created new
sizable opportunities in the formofamiddle class that fuels the
demand for brandedproducts (Kumar et al.,2015). Among the
BRIC countries, China and India have emerged as potential
markets contributingto the growth in demand for luxury goods
(Euromonitor International, 2019). According to McKinsey’s
FashionScope report, India’s apparel market will be worth
$59.3bn, and the sixth-largestin the world by 2022 (McKinsey,
2019). India has been predictedas the “Star of Asia”registering
The current issue and fullt extarchive of this journal is available on Emerald
Insight at: https://www.emerald.com/insight/1061-0421.htm
Journal of Product & Brand Management
30/4 (2020) 513–531
© Emerald Publishing Limited [ISSN 1061-0421]
[DOI 10.1108/JPBM-08-2019-2535]
Received 26 August2019
Revised 13 September 2019
27 January 2020
13 April 2020
Accepted 22 April 2020
513
RETRACTED
continuous double-digit growth in the global luxury brands
sector (Deloitte,2018). Economic liberalization in the early 90s
has been instrumental in the rapid growth of Indian economy
(Paul and Mas, 2016), and values of Indian consumers have
evolved and undergone a change becauseof exposure to global
products (Parthasarathy et al.,2015;Rao, 2000;Sanyal et al.,
2014) and have impacted consumption decisions. Luxury
products have always been popular among Indians and
symbolized power and status (Eng and Bogaert, 2010). Indian
culture and tradition have givenimportance to consumption of
luxury and display of wealth in social functions. The desire to
exhibit affluence, status and wealthhas led upper middle class
to aspire to buy luxury brands (Jain et al.,2017;Schultz and
Jain, 2018).
Western countries have exhibited steady growth in branded
luxury consumption over time; emerging countries have fallen
rapidly and deeply in love with luxury (Chadha and Husband,
2006;Kapferer, 2016).World over, in the 18th century, luxury
was the exclusive prerogative of aristocrats; however, with the
end of the aristocracy, the role of luxury has changed,such that
whereas once it signaled the social hierarchy,it now creates the
hierarchy (Kapferer and Bastien, 2012). Thus, luxury brands
can no longer compete on “quality”and need to add latent
social hierarchy or symbolic capital (Kapferer, 2016). The
difference is not in the product anymore but in the ability of
luxury to trigger appropriate certifications that serve as
gatekeepers in postmodern societies (Truong et al.,2009).
Hence, the high price is not good enoughto define a product as
a luxury, especially if it is not endowed with blessings of the
right brand (Kapfereret al.,2014).
In India, nawabs and kings in the past have used luxury
products to exhibit their status,prosperity and power. In recent
years, luxury brands are purchased by the wealthy upper class
as it reflected social class and affluence. Moreover, the
affordable luxury segmentis growing in India at the rate of over
40% per annum, outpacing the rest of the segments (Mishra
and Jain, 2018). The research focused on factors such as
growing middle class (Kant et al., 2018),a greater appreciation
for a luxurious lifestyle (Sharda and Bhat, 2019), increased
awareness about fashion trends (Roy et al., 2018), higher
disposable income across middle and upper middle classes
(Business Standard, 2018) and aspirations toward Western
brands among young Indian consumers (Eng and Bogaert,
2010;Gupta, 2011). This lifestyle-oriented young spendthrift
consumer base is progressively driving India to acquire a
prominent position in the branded luxury fashion industry
(Das, 2015;Gupta, 2019;Roy et al.,2016). What might have
been described as superfluous luxury consumption in the past has
become a seeming necessity for upper middle-class households
(Kapferer, 2016). Additionally, postliberalization global luxury
brands such as Mango, Gucci, Louis Vuitton and Calvin Klein
have become popular among Indians (Bhardwaj et al.,2010;
Mukherjee et al.,2012) and are being used to represent affluence
and global lifestyle (Handa and Khare, 2013).
Consumer purchasedecisions are influenced by personal and
social values (Kahle and Xie, 2008;Weidmann et al.,2012).
Extant research on consumervalue focusses on the relationship
between price and quality (Gallarza et al., 2011), benefits
encompassing cognitive and affective nature of values
(Lloyd and Luk, 2010) and specifying theneed for a dynamic
and flexible connotation of the consumer value disposition
(Gallarza et al.,2011;Kautish and Sharma, 2018). Two of the
prominent perspectives are the attribution mediation and the
product meaning approach proposedby Allen (2000) and were
adapted from the terminal and instrumental value orientation
of the seminal work of Rokeach (1973). The attribution
mediation approach argued that values do not influence
product or brand preference directly,and instead influence the
importance of product attributes that, in turn, guide product
evaluation and brand purchase (Allen, 2000;Pitts and
Woodside, 1983).
Marketing researchers have paid little attention to the
influence of human value orientation on brand consciousness
and behavioral intentionsfor luxury fashion consumption. The
current research is an attempt to integrate and contrast two
diverse streams of human value framework proposed by
Rokeach (1973) by redefining them in the context of luxury
brands. These insights would help in reinterpreting values on
its consequent internal (i.e. fashion awareness, attitude and
satisfaction) and external responses (e.g. purchase intentions,
word-of-mouth and re-patronage). The study attempts to
examine the relationship between consumers’human value
orientation, brand consciousness and behavioral intentions for
fashion apparel.The objectives of the study are as follows:
to operationalize terminal and instrumental values relating
to luxury fashion apparel and understand their
relationship with intention to buy luxury fashion brands in
an EM; and
to examine the relative importance of terminal and
instrumental values in predicting brand consciousness and
purchase behavior of luxury fashion apparel.
2. Theoretical framework
According to the symbolic self-completion theory (Wicklund
and Gollwitzer, 1981), the individualsuse material possessions
and other indicators as socially familiar symbols to
communicate their identities to others. Braun and Wicklund
(1989) defined a symbolas:
any facet of the person that has the potential of representing a unique signal
to others (who recognize the symbol as related to the identity) that one
possesses the identity in question’(p. 164).
The symbolic self-completion theory endorsed the notion that
consumers use branded products as a means to protect their
self-identity. Individuals evaluate brands on several attributes
such as quality and exclusiveness (Kirmani et al.,1999;
Strizhakova et al., 2011), style and self-expression (Vigneron
and Johnson, 2004;CasidyMulyanegara and Tsarenko, 2009;
C
at
alin and Andreea, 2014). In line with the self-completion
theory, brands enable consumers’social self-construal and
exhibiting affiliation to a group (McAlxander et al., 2002;
Bagozzi and Dholakia, 2006). High brand-conscious
consumers may buy expensive brands and remain brand loyal
not only because of value perceptions per se but also because
other consumers perceive them as socially valued or admired
because of the high price (Bao and Mandrik, 2004). The
current study examined the influence of consumer values in
conceptualizing fashion apparel brands and, consequently, its
impact on brand consciousnessand intention to buy branded
fashion apparel.
Predicting luxury fashion consumption
Pradeep Kautish, Arpita Khare and Rajesh Sharma
Journal of Product & Brand Management
Volume 30 · Number 4 · 2020 · 513–531
514
RETRACTED
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