A different Dubai

Published date08 April 2024
Publication titleEvening Gazette
Dubai's bold reinvention often divides opinion with many dismissing it as all style and no substance. But despite the glitzy facade and the popular belief that it's nothing but Instagram fodder and retail therapy, there's real soul and magic to be discovered - for those ready to seek it

The natural starting point is Al Fahidi, the historic neighbourhood in The beckons and quite any

Old Dubai that offers a fascinating glimpse into a bygone time and the commercial origins that sparked the city's remarkable growth. Centred around the Dubai Creek, where old abras (wooden water taxis) ply the waterway, the atmospheric alleys and fragrant markets are a world away from the sterile and sometimes soulless malls found elsewhere in the city.

There's culture, too. Meaning 'meeting place' in Arabic, the Majlis Gallery houses paintings, ceramics, glasswork and photography by artists from near and far, including many Emiratis. Dar Al Khatt is an institution dedicated to beautiful Arabic calligraphy, while the Coins Museum houses a rare collection of 500 coins from as far back as the 7th century.

More modern-day jewels are on display in the glittering Gold Souk located nearby. Trade of this precious metal began in Dubai in the 1940s and it remains one of the world's biggest and most important gold markets. Other much-loved shopping hotspots in Old Dubai include souks specialising in spices, perfumes and fabrics.

This is prime people-watching territory. Among the shops and stalls, this historic covered arcade is a bubbling melting pot of local culture, with men hauling carts and women in traditional dress browsing for bargains.

Stop off for a tangy glass of mint and lime juice or cup of gahwa (traditional coffee) at the Arabian Tea House, where billowing lace curtains, turquoise benches and white rattan desert with it experiences unlike other chairs take you a world away from Starbucks. It's also a good place to sample classic Emirati dishes, such as tahta laham (spiced shredded lamb served between layers of white rice and finished with caramelised onions and dried raisins) and traditional cakes and sweets.

It's an exciting time when it comes to food and drink in Dubai. The city is rapidly emerging as one of the world's great culinary destinations, with celebrity chefs and Michelin stars descending on the desert in their droves.

While British talents Heston Blumenthal, Jason Atherton and Gordon Ramsay all have a...

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